The Osprey Tavern, the Baldwin Park restaurant that opened in March last year, recently added weekday lunch to its repertoire. So it seemed like a good excuser for a return visit to a place that just seems to get better as it goes along.
The lunch menu has a few echoes from the dinner bill of fare. The “All Hands on Deck,” for instance, the curiously named burger, identical in description and price, $16, at lunch and dinner. Or the Hanger Steak, the curiously priced entree, $22 at lunch and $28 at dinner, even though both feature an eight ounce piece of Painted Hills meat. (Description nearly the same, though the accompanying “cheddar cauliflower” becomes “cauliflower gratin” at sundown.
I chose the Smoked Brisket Sandwich for my main, an ample mound of tender meat on a challah roll topped with slaw and house-made pickles. A good sandwich fairly priced at $11, especially considering that it came with a side of pork rinds. What a nice alternative to the usual fries, even though one of two rinds was about all I could manage. For the record, the fries are good, too. Didn’t try the other alternative, a salad, because there was already slaw on the brisket and I figured that was salad enough.
One of my companions had the Grilled Salmon Sandwich, a fairly mundane but well produced fish option, served on a fresh-tasting kaiser bun.
Another tablemate chose the Grain Bowl, which had Anson Mills farro verde with delicious pickled beets and kimchied bok choy. And because it all started to sound rather healthy, my friend also ordered a side of the pork rinds.
I’ve learned that most people who visit Osprey Tavern either love the ambience or dislike it greatly. I’m in the group that likes it a lot. I find the open atmosphere comfortable but classy, the sort of place one can feel at home in whether dressed down or up.
Which should make Osprey a popular destination for business lunchers.
Osprey Tavern is at 4899 New Broad St., Orlando. Lunch is available Tuesday through Friday. The phone number is 407-960-7700.