No one opens a place like Fairbanks Restaurant anymore. And I should say right off that I have a hard time referring to it as Fairbanks Restaurant and not Fairbanks Diner, though everything about the place screams diner, though there is no breakfast counter and the food is prepared in a hidden kitchen. Still, you can hear the sizzles of bacon and the “Hi, Hons” as the servers efficiently work their tables.
This is the sort of place I like to come to for breakfast, and when I found myself in Winter Park at an unusually early hour, I stopped in. I ordered the Fairbanks omelet, wtih bacon, ham, sausage, onion, finely diced green peppers, and a few mushrooms folded into an eggy package with melted cheddar on top. It was accompanied by chunky home fries that were nicely crisped but not nearly as greasy as I would have liked them to be.
My breakfast came with a biscuit, so I also got a side order of sausage gravy to cover it up. I liked it all.
And yes, I mean just liked. This is not the sort of place that causes one to wax eloquently about the food. It’s food. It’s made to order and it fills your belly. The coffee is hot but is not something you’d get from a press pot.
But you’ll be comfortable in the homey setting. (Well, you’ll be comfortable if you don’t sit in the booth that I did, the one with the broken spring.) And you’ll be welcomed when you come through the door and thanked when you leave.
They don’t make places like this anymore.
Fairbanks Restaurant is at 1800 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park. It is open for breakfast and lunch daily. The phone number is 407-645-3199.