Red Wing Restaurant

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Red Wing Restaurant in Groveland

When I first wrote about Red Wing Restaurant, the old-Florida restaurant in Groveland, far west of Orlando, gasoline prices were just starting their skyward surge. So it was a pretty tough sell to recommend that people hop in their SUVs and drive out to Groveland for dinner. Red Wing

But now that gas has gotten a lot more reasonable -- and more people have junked their gas-guzzlers -- it's time to reconsider a visit to this terrific little spot.

This review appeared originally in the Orlando Sentinel.

If you’re looking for “old Florida,” you can’t get much older than Red Wing Restaurant.

For over 60 years the stone building, which at one time was a private home, has served as a meeting place for Lake County growers, farmers, truckers and others. It’s the sort of place where you might find a boothful of grimy construction workers next to a table with a family with children and, not far away, a couple on a date.

And you shouldn’t be surprised to overhear, as I did on one of my visits, a man tell someone else that he was just there biding his time until the vet could come by to geld his horse. Not there at the restaurant.

At least I don’t think so.

But you will find some obscure menu items. It isn’t often that you see Buffalo fried frog legs. Even less frequently will you hear me say they were really good. The appetizer featured three haunches, each with plenty of meat, deep-fried and tossed with a hot sauce, a la Buffalo wings, except there was more meat on the legs than you’ll ever find on a chicken wing.

And if fried frog legs don’t appeal to you, or even if they do, you might want to try the fried dill pickles. Why this delicacy is seen so seldom I don’t know. But usually they’re served as dill chips. Here they’re long spears with enough surface area to hold the light batters and even substance to give a good, salty crunch.

Fried green tomatoes had a crisp breading with firm fruit inside. The ranch dressing was the perfect accompaniment.

If you’re appalled by all the fried food, try the crab cake, which was sautéed. Better yet, don’t. As one might guess from the $6.99 price, little crab meat was involved.

On a dinner visit my guest had the combination duck breast and butterflied quail. The grilled duck was a bit tough, but the quail was moist, although it lacked any gamey characteristics.

I had the special elk chops, which were also a bit bland but more tender than you’d expect elk to be.

On a lunch visit my guest had the fish and chips, which featured big chunks of pure white grouper with a golden crisp jacket. At first I thought it odd the fish was served without sauce, but after a couple of bites I realized none was necessary. The chips were sweet potato fries, which were firm, decidedly ungreasy and thoroughly delicious.

The black and blue burger was less enjoyable. It was cooked a bit beyond the requested medium-rare, and neither the patty nor the blue cheese that topped it offered much in the way of flavor.

For dessert there was an unusual cobbler made with multiple fruit and loaded with sugar. In fact the “cobbler” part of it seemed to be more sugar than anything else, but it wasn’t at all cloying.

Service was casual but not neglectful. The staff was as warm and welcoming to the city folks who stopped in as they were to regulars.

No one would ever confuse Red Wing with a fine dining restaurant. The place shows its age, and so do the various stuffed heads that decorate the dark paneled walls. The occasional beer sign also keeps the ambience from getting too highfalutin.

There is a long bar inside the front door, but it seems more of a lunch counter than a drinking spot. To the left and right are dining rooms, and in the back is a large screened area for private functions.

B.B. King's Blues Club at Pointe Orlando

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Don’t go to B.B. King’s Blues Club expecting to see the music legend on the stage. Chances are he’s off in some other part of the world with Lucille, his famed guitar. But you can still expect to be entertained by some terrific musicians, if not one of the special acts booked at the club throughout the year then by the very able house band, a group of 10 singers and instrumentalists who get the place jumping every night.

And you can expect to chow down on Southern comfort foods, signature items from Memphis, the Mississippi delta and the bayous of Louisiana.

Well, OK, not all of it is authentically Southern, such as the nachos, unless you’re talking south of the border. My guest and I had put ourselves in the hands of the chef who sent out this massive mound of chips and cheese and other accouterments, including pulled pork. The chips were surprisingly crispy, and there were plenty of toppings.

However, I preferred the platter of fried dill pickles, smallish but crisp, and the meaty barbecued ribs with a sweetish sauce.

Better still was the bowl of gumbo ya ya, with smoked chicken, andouille sausage, crawfish and peppers in a roux as dark as the bayou.

For my entree I had the chicken fried chicken, a meaty breast with a jacket of buttermilk breading topped with pan gravy and accompanied by macaroni and cheese.

My friend had the Carolina bbq salmon, grilled and served on corn with shrimp in a creamy sauce, topped with shredded “tobacco” fries.

For dessert there was a decadently dense and rich chocolate brownie and a banana bread pudding with a firm texture that was a lot lighter than it looked.

The club is a huge warehouse like space with a high stage as the focal point. Tabletops are painted in the manner of folk art. The atmosphere is appropriately rustic and downright grungy -- you wouldn’t expect anything else from a blues club.

B.B. King's is at Pointe Orlando, 9101 International Drive; 407-370-4550.

Anh Hong

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Anh Hong Vietnamese restaurant; quality takes a dive

I had the most unpleasant dining experience at Anh Hong the other night. Anh Hong, you may recall, is a past winner of Foodie Awards for best Vietnamese cuisine. There wasn't a thing about my recent visit that I would call positive, not the food, not the service and especially not the atmosphere.

And by atmosphere, I don't mean just the decor, which, to be sure, was dreary and had an unkempt and worn appearance. I also include the loud, head-banger music that was blaring in the restaurant, which apparently was being plaAnh Hongyed merely for the benefit of the server. Perhaps the owner figured that with the server's don't-give-a-damn attitude, playing his music was the only way to keep him there. (I say let him go.)

Even without the heavy metal, the food would not have been acceptable. My guests and I started with the Hanoi crepes, which the menu said included pork. But there was so little meat inside the largely bland pancakes that a vegetarian could have eaten them without guilt. We also had the summer rolls, with a smidgen of shrimp inside. They tasted as though they had been made some time before.

For my entree I had the rice platter with beef marinated in wine. There was little evidence of butter ins the sauce, as promised. One of my guests had the beef noodle soup, which was short on noodles and beef.

And to think I once awarded this place my Foodie Award for best Vietnamese. It's interesting that the plates the food was served on bore the name of Viet Nam Town, the now-closed restaurant across the street. Same owners, someone told me. If the food and service at that restaurant had dropped to the same level as it has at Anh Hong, it's no wonder it has closed.

Anh Hong is at 1124 E. Colonial Drive, Orlando. The phone number is 407-999-2656.

Padrino's Cuban Bistro

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Padrino's Cuban Bistro serves excellent Cuban cuisine

By virtue of sheer proximity, Florida has always been home to good Cuban restaurants, and Central Florida has had a pretty good share of them, though certainly not as many as South Florida.Padrino's

Now a popular South Florida restaurant, Padrino’s Cuban Cuisine, has opened a Central Florida outpost. To distinguish it from its Hallandale, Plantation and Boca Raton siblings, the new restaurant is called Padrino’s Cuban Bistro, and it’s presenting Central Floridians with a stylishly creative rendition of Cuban food in an atmosphere that is classy yet festive.

I'm prepared to call this the best Cuban food is Central Florida; it's really that good.

The menu is a mix of classic dishes, old family recipes and imaginative interpretations. My guest and I started our dinner with the classic empanadas, crisp, flaky pastries filled with a spicy ground beef mixture. They were served with a wonderful guava chutney that I could have eaten by the spoonful.

We also had a selection of tostones topped with ropa vieja, ground beef and chicken. The shredded beef of the ropa vieja was a favorite.

For my entree I chose Mayi’s mahi mahi, a colorful dish of red, green, orange, yellow, golden and white that featured a fresh-tasting fillet topped with fresh mango and pineapple chutney, served with mashed sweet potatoes and fresh vegetables.

My companion had the lechon asado, which was a study in browns. But what it lacked in color it made up for in flavor, a roast pork seasoned with a tangy citrus mojo. The meat was accompanied by arroz moro, a blend of fluffy white rice and black beans, and boiled yuca. The rice could have used some broth and was a bit under spiced, but the yuca, or casava, was delicious, specifically because it wasn’t too over-seasoned. Many Cuban restaurants tend to douse their yuca with so much garlic sauce that it takes on a acidic taste. Here there was just enough garlic to still enjoy the mild flavor of the root.

We couldn’t decide which of the desserts to try, so we sampled all three. And I still can’t decide which one I liked best. Pudin de pan, which I usually order just because I like saying it, was a perfectly custardized bread pudding with coconut and raisins graced with a rum-tinged dulce de leche.  Tres leches featured white sponge cake soaked with three sweet milks. And the flan -- one couldn’t possibly have a Cuban restaurant without flan on the menu -- had a creamy yet firm custard topped with sweet caramel sauce.

Service was friendly and helpful. Our waitress was able to answer questions about the menu with authority, and she kept the meal moving at a casual, unhurried pace.

One of the more distinctive things about Padrino’s is its decor, a bright and tidy spot that earns it the bistro designation.

The restaurant’s logo, a simple palm frond motif, is incorporated into the busy carpet. Colorful Cuban paintings that look like a form of cubism -- Cuban cubism? -- adorn the walls and lively Latin music plays at just the right volume in the background. Tabletops are bare, dark wood, decorated with a simple candle in a crackle glass lantern.

Padrino’s is very much a family business. Diosado Padrino opened the first Padrino’s Cuban Cuisine with his wife, Candida Rosa, in 1976 a few years after the family emigrated from Cuba. In 1982 their son, Mario, joined the business, and soon his wife, Nayade, did too. Mario and Nayade have relocated to Central Florida to oversee Padrino’s Cuban Bistro, and Nayade, who graduated from culinary school in 2006, is spearheading recipe development. They are usually at the restaurant tending to the customers and making sure that everything is first-rate. And it usually is.

Padrino's Cuban Bistro is at 13586 S. John Young Parkway, Orlando. The phone number is 407-251-5107

K2 Food Lounge

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K2 Food Lounge a clever way to deal with restaurant recession

This is the sort of thing a clever restaurateur does to survive these difficult economic times.

K Restaurant Wine Bar in College Park is, of course, a fairly pricey place. With its signature porcini dusted filet mignon demanding $36, it isn't the sort of dinner you have to celebrate your latest 401(k) statement.

Many restaurants have made adjustments with less expensive ingredients, as I'm sure K has. And they're offering deals, such as prix fixe nights where the diner can have a three-course dinner for less than it would cost to order a la carte. K has such a deal. A prix fixe menu is offered each evening, and on Monday nights it is the only menu available.K2 Food Lounge But increasingly it isn't whether it's a good deal you're getting, it's how much you're spending. So now, Thursdays though Saturdays, K is offering K2, a food lounge that specializes in small plates with small(er) prices.

K2 is set up in the side dining room that was added to the restaurant several years ago to handle overflow from the main dining room. Overflow doesn't happen too often these days, so instead of sealing the room off, owner Kevin Fonzo and general manager Dan Francoforte repurposed it with the very clever name K2.

Offerings here are more along the lines of a tapas bar. The menu includes "firecracker" quail legs (I told you they were small plates); braised escargot; K2 fries with applewood smoked bacon salt; beef carpaccio; dork (that's duck and pork) sliders; lobster corn dogs; and charcuterie and cheese options. Prices range from $4 to $10.

My friend and I stopped in on a Friday evening. Actually, we had stopped in before on a Tuesday not knowing K2 was not open nightly. There was a group mingling in the K2 area and it became clear they were using it as a staging area while they waited for the rest of the group to arrive for a dinner in the main dining foom (K1). There were no staff members in the area to greet us, so we took a seat and waited for someone to come by. Evenutally a server came into the area and looked around, then, ignoring us, left the room. So I got up and went to the main dining room to find out if we had done something wrong by entering K2 through its separate door and not through K's main entrance.

No, said the fellow who moments ago had ignored us, we were fine where we were. And when I pointed out that no one had come by to take our order, he actually looked a bit peeved that I would suggest he was being inattentive.

Once we were finally greeted properly and assigned a waiter (not that one, thank goodness) things started moving. We ordered the sliders -- how could you not try something called a dork? -- which were spiced nicely and complemented with a house-made ketchup. Very tasty.  Fried oysters were a bit soggy and the cheese plate was interesting but fairly small, even for a small plate concept.

The by-the-glass wine list tries to reflect the lower price ideology, with choices as low as $5. Didn't find anything stellar, but I appreciated the effort.

The K2 space could use some spiffing up. It's a long narrow room with a very high ceiling. Something could be done with lighting to make it more comforatble. With the brick walls and the bowling alley effect I found the space cold and unwelcoming. K has always championed local artists by displaying their works on the restaurant's walls, but the narrowness of the room doesn't allow for good viewing angles.

Still, I think K2 is on the right track. People still want to go out to eat, and they want to go to good restaurants. Instead of trading down to a chain, they can visit K2, and have some decent food and affordable prices. No, the portions aren't big, but let's face it, restaurants serve too much food on a plate as it is. On the other end, this recession may turn out to be the best thing for the American waistline since Atkins.

K2 and K Restaurant Wine Bar are at 2401 Edgewater Drive, Orlando. The phone number is 407-872-2332. View the menu at the K Restaurant Web site.

Portobello

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Portobello at Downtown Disney

Portobello

My experiences with the Chicago-based company have been less than stellar over the years. They all but ran Fulton’s Crab House aground, and when they took over ownership of his café, Wolfgang Puck came close to demanding they take his name off of it.

So I didn’t have high hopes when I visited Levy’s newly revamped Portobello, which did drop the words “Yacht Club” from its name, though not because of a maritime complaint.  

You may recall -- and if you do, boy, are you old! -- that when Pleasure Island first opened, everything had a theme and a story behind it. The island was the project, so the cockamamie tale went, of Merriweather Adam Pleasure who built the warehouse district for his own enjoyment, or, if you will, pleasure.

The structure that is the restaurant we speak of today was supposedly originally the home of Pleasure and his wife, Isabella. Disney, we were led to understand back in 1989 (I told you you were old!), along with Levy Restaurants had restored the old home into a yacht club. Never mind that there were no boats about, other than the faux paddlewheeler that was then called the Empress Lily, which is now home to Fulton’s Crab House. The restaurant featured Italian cuisine because of Mrs. Pleasure’s heritage and all the recipes were her own. (You may roll your eyes here, if you like.)

Portobello Yacht Club was quite good, as was Fulton’s when it first opened. The Fireworks Factory -- Merriweather fancied himself a fireworks fiend -- also run by Levy, was modestly OK. (The Fireworks Factory, which had the most un-Disneylike men’s room you could imagine, eventually became a country western bar and then was torn down for other projects I've forgotten about because I'm older than you.)

But then something happened, presumably in the ranks of Levy. Fulton’s, which once had been the best seafood restaurant in town, suddenly was only mediocre at best. And Portobello Yacht Club’s quality flagged too. I’ve already mentioned Wolfgang Puck’s reaction to the way they handled his namesake restaurant.

But the restaurant I found at Downtown Disney recently was very different from the old place.  The food was top-notch – creative interpretations of Italian dishes that were flavorful and filling. And I suddenly find myself able to once again recommend it as a destination. What a treat to have a restaurant to suggest for before or after a La Nouba performance.

My companion and I put ourselves in the hands of chef Steven Richard for the evening. Richard developed the menu in concert with Tony Mantuano, a James Beard Award-winning chef from Levy’s Chicago restaurant Spiaggia.

We started with an array of antipasti, including bresaola, capicolla, lentil salad, roasted beets, Gorgonzola, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and crostini with ricotta and honey. All were good, though the cheeses might have been better if they hadn’t  been so cold.

The restaurant is pushing its sambuca shrimp appetizer as a signature item, even presenting a recipe card upon seating. It featured four large shrimp on a layer of paper-thin sliced potatoes in a small iron Portobello skillet doused with liqueur and flambéed. Good, though I don’t quite understand the push to sell them (other than the price -- $13.95 – fetches nearly $3.75 per shrimp!).

Our pasta course featured ravioli gigante, distinctive in their size, which was comparable to a cocktail napkin, the creamy ricotta and spinach filling and the tangy tomato sauce.

The main course was a massive porterhouse steak, presented sliced in a skillet, the strip side sufficiently steaky in texture and the tenderloin side creamy tender. We also sampled the grilled lobster, presented split, sweet meat with a smoky note. There was, however, a preponderance of rosemary – and this from someone who adores rosemary.

Dessert brought a chunky tiramisu and a smooth crème brulee, though the server preferred to call it something else because creme brulee isn’t Italian.

The atmosphere is a little more bustling and informal than when it was the Portobello Yacht Club. The restaurant is sectioned into separate dining areas but each is open to the other, so there is an expansive feel. The decor gives more of a Tuscan steakhouse sort of feel. It’s a little less formal, though white tablecloths keep it from sinking into too casual a mood.

Speaking of sinking, the reason the restaurant is now known simply as Portobello is that when Disney closed Pleasure Island there was no reason to keep up with the whole legend from the past. Taking Yacht Club off the name removed any need to keep explaining the absence of yachts.

Our server was capable and knowledgeable, able to answer questions with authority. I was also impressed with the manager, who did more than just stand around and watch (I actually saw him wiping down countertops in the restroom!).

It’s that kind of dedication that makes a restaurant work.

I can’t wait to see if they’re working that hard at Fulton’s and Puck’s.

El Coqui Mexicano

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I was a little hesitant when I suggested to a friend that we meet for lunch at El Coqui Mexicano. The last time I attempted a rendezvous at the little cafe, back toward the end of January, my friend and I were greeted with a hastily drawn sign on the front door that announced the restaurant would be closed until the end of the month.

Right, I thought. It's been my experience that whenever a sign like that appears on a door it means the owners have no intention of repening, and are usually several states away by the time anyone notices.

But El Coqui is open once again, and I've come to understand that the impromptu closing was the owners' unusual way of  doing things. It wouldn't be the most unusual thing, and certainly not the most annoying, but I'll come back to that in a moment.

For the most part I enjoyed my visit to El Coqui, which is named for a tree frog common to Puerto Rico. Oh, that's another unusual thing about this place -- not that it's named for a tree frog but that a place called El Coqui Mexicano would feature Puerto Rican food.

But that's a nod to the heritage of its two owners, Rico and Evelyn Martinez. Rico, despite what you might guess from his name, is from Mexico; Evelyn is from Puerto Rico. So the menu has food from both lands. They're separate on the compact menu, rather than presented as fusion cuisine, although that could certainly be interesting. If they ever try it, I think they should trademark the term Mexi-Rico.

I was in the mood for Mexican, and the huevos rancheros caught my eye immediately, and not just because it was the first entry on the menu board on the back wall. I just happen to love huevos rancheros, and so few places offer it that I usually grab it whenever I can.

But our server mentioned another dish, guarache, which seemed to have all the things I like about huevos rancheros with the added attraction of beefsteak. That's what I ordered.

My friend requested the chilaquiles, four tubes of crisply deep-fried tortillas rolled with shredded chicken inside. They were topped with a mildly spicy green tomatillo sauce and slathered with sour cream and white cheese.

My friend generously shared the chilaquiles, which was fortunate because it was several minutes more before my entree would be brought to the table -- just another unusual way of doing things here (but still not the oddest thing).

The guarache was delicious. Two seemingly fresh-made tortillas provided the foundation for refried beans, a thin beefsteak and two fried eggs, topped with the same toppings as the chilaquiles but more of them, especially the fresco queso.

El Coqui is a charming and compact place. Originally intended, I was told, to serve only as a takeout restaurant, tall tables and chairs were added when folks showed no intention of taking their food elsewhere. The walls and ceiling panels are painted in bright colors, and paintings of the restaurant's namesake adorn the walls. It is a very neat, clean space in every sense.

During our meal, my guest and I sipped our diet sodas. These were not our first choice. We had both requested only a glass of water. But our server told us the only water they served was bottled water. That's right: El Coqui will not serve its guests tap water. Buy something or go thirsty. According to a source at the Florida Restaurant and Lodging Association, there is no law that says a restaurant has to give its patrons free water. Though not to do so is simply lousy customer service. But I must add that the overall attitude of everyone there is welcoming and friendly. Still, in nearly 21 years of reviewing restaurants I never came across this one (even Ronnie's gave its patrons a glass of water!).

But, as I said, they tend to do things differently here. And the prices are quite low, so you can afford to buy some liquid refreshment. The chilaquiles were $7 and at $12 my guarache was the most expensive thing on the menu (my friend was buying!).

El Coqui Mexicano is at 2406 E. Washington St., Orlando (just east of Bumby Avenue behind a small bookstore). The restaurant is open Tuesday through Saturday until 7 p.m. each day, but don't hold me to that. On Sundays you can find the owners selling food at the farmers market at Lake Eola. The cafe's phone number is 407-601-4928. There is no Web site.

Aroma Italian Cafe

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Aroma Italian Cafe and Wine Bar has Surprisingly Good Food

I say surprisingly because Aroma is housed in a little slip of a place that you wouldn't think could possibly muster up anything more than some ciabatta slathered with marinara and melted mozzarella. But the food here is not only substantial, it's also quite good.

"Housed," by the way, is the appropriate word because Aroma is in what used to be someone's home on Washington Street.

This is not the first time I've written about Aroma. I reviewed it in a Chow Hound column for the Orlando Sentinel almost exactly one year ago in the Dec. 14 issue of Calendar. Back then it was known as Aroma Coffee & Wine Bar, and was a new venture by the former owners of Babbo Italian restaurant on Edgewater Drive (which is now the Fonzo brothers' Nonna).

The new owners of Aroma, Jeff and Gloria Pattishall, have dropped coffee from the name and are focusing on the Italian cafe and wine bar aspects. And the food that I sampled recently indicates they're wise to do so.

It should be mentioned that this still isn't much of a restaurant, or even a cafe, in terms of service and overall experience, though don't get me wrong -- the Pattishall's are lovely hosts, it's just that the service is more casual. The tables are small, more suited to glasses of wine and small plates of appetizers than full-sized dinner plates. But there are bigger tables on the terrace out front, which is a nice place to people-watch in charming Thornton Park.

I liked Eustacchio's lentil soup, though I don't have the foggiest notion who the heck Eustacchio is. (The menu has a picture of an older man next to the soup entry, so we'll just assume that's Eust himself.) The soup was an entree-sized serving with multiple levels of flavors and lots of little lentils with fresh veggies. I thought it was a bit pricy at $9.95, but it did include a small salad and lots of fresh ciabatta bread.

(I asked Gloria who made the bread, though I knew the answer before she confirmed it -- Olde Hearth continues to make the finest breads in the area.)

One of my companions had lasagna, house-made with layers of perfectly al dente pasta and rich red sauce, with meatballs and sausage blended in.

The penne served with another companion's Italian sausage plate was not as nicely cooked. It was a bit over-boiled and had a mealy texture. But the sausage was wonderful, with terrific spicy notes. The meatball entree was tasty too.

It would be wrong to say that Aroma is a welcome addition to the neighborhood since it's been around for over a year. But let's just say the Pattishalls are a welcome addition to the neighborhood, and they're bound to make Aroma -- and Thornton Park -- an even better place to eat and drink.

Aroma is at 712 E. Washington Street, Orlando. The hours are 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Wednesday through Saturday (as long as there are people there, they tell me, or else they'll close earlier), and 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday. The phone number is 407-426-8989. The cafe does not have a Web site yet, but you can download the menu pdf right here. icon Download the new Aroma Italian Cafe menu (227.9 kB)

We had started with the antipasto misto, which had olrives, roasted red peppers, wonderful hunks of asiago and parmesan cheeses, as well as fresh mozzarella, with prosciutto and salami. It was a feast in itself.

The wine list is extensive given the size of the place, and there are dozens of selections by the glass, which is how it should be in a wine bar.

Brick & Fire Pizza and Pasta Parlor

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Brick & Fire Pizza and Pasta Parlor

It looks like Brick & Fire has found the perfect home.Brick & Fire Pizza and Pasta Parlor

You may remember Brick & Fire when it was located inside Church Street Station until late last year. Or, you may not remember, because precious few people found their way to that part of downtown during the obstructive construction of 55 West. But even without that distraction, there were other factors that prevented Brick & Fire from finding its niche.

A couple of those reasons had to do with Cameron Kuhn. B&F owner Mark Dollard has had a few concepts in that space, including the promising Absinthe Bistro. But when Kuhn bought the entertainment and dining complex, he dictated, according to Dollard, that if he wanted to stay he would have to offer a pizza concept. That was an element that was missing in the complex. And, said Dollard, Kuhn wanted it to be more upscale, so he wanted it to be called Brick & Fire Pizza and Wine Co.. The wine just made it oh so much more appealing, don't you agree?

Dollard complied, and when I reviewed Brick & Fire for the Sentinel last April, I thought he was doing a pretty good job. I especially liked the pizza, which had the appropriate elasticity in the crust, and was browned just right from the oven, an actual brick oven with real fire, just as the name promised.

But then Kuhn started having financial difficulties, and Church Street Station went into a bankruptcy situation. Dollard, like all the other restaurant and retail owners on the block, found himself in limbo. With a combination of poor traffic, an unsure future, and a present that included rent of $34,000 a month, Dollard decided to finally cut bait on Church Street. Over the course of just a few days in November, he and business partner John Dobson moved the business to a stand-alone building on South Orange Avenue near the Orlando Health medical complex. By all accounts, it seems to have been a very smart move.

The building  doesn't have the provenance of Church Street Station -- ironically, it started life as a Pizza Hut, but most recently it held a Moe's Southwestern fast fooder -- but it has a casual atmosphere that suits Dollard's cuisine quite nicely. This is your basic pizza joint. And with no one to dictate what they must call the restaurant, Dollard and Dobson dropped the Wine Co. and added Pasta Parlor.

I stopped in recently and ordered the four meat pizza pie, one that I had enjoyed at the old location. But being extra hungry, my companion and I asked our server what we could get super fast while we waited for the pie to bake. She suggested an appetizer order of the beef & pork meatballs. I'm glad she did. The meaty balls were compact and well-spiced, and the marinara sauce they swam in was piquant with bright flavors.

The pizza arrived and it was good -- loaded up with pepperoni, salami, capicola and sausage with meatballs and more good sauce. But there was something slightly different about this pie when compared to the one Dollard cooked on Church Street. He told me there was indeed a difference but it had nothing to do with the ingredients. The variance was the result of different ovens. The Church Street location had a $40,000 oven; this location had a less expensive, standard pizza oven, perhaps left over from the Pizza Hut days. It made a difference, but not so much as to detract from the overall result. Brick & Fire still serves a damn good pizza even without Bricks or Fire.

There is, by the way, still wine, even though it isn't part of the official name anymore. The offerings aren't stellar, but the prices are impressive: how about $1.99 for a glass of house wine? It isn't the most generous pour, but still, that's pretty good.

And the alcohol selections will remain only beer and wine. On Church Street Brick & Fire had a full liquour bar. Dollard and Dobson had planned to have a full bar in their new location. But when they saw that families made up a good portion of their clientele, they decided to scrap those plans.

For his part, Dollard seems much happier now. And why wouldn't he? He went from $34,000/ month rent to $4,000/month. And he has a lot more customers. And the customers are happy because they can park next door to the restaurant -- for free -- and have good food in a friendly atmosphere. Everybody wins.

Except Church Street Station.

Brick & Fire is at 1621 S. Orange Ave., Orlando. Lunch and dinner is served daily. Pasta dishes range from $9.95 to $12.95; pizzas are the same prices for 10-inch pies, $17.95-$23.95 for 16-inchers. The phone number is 407-426-8922. More infor and a look at the menu at Brick & Fire's Web site.

Ocean Prime

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Ocean Prime serves seafood and steaks on Restaurant Row

This is a review of Ocean Prime that I wrote for the current issue of Orlando Style magazine. Note: Ocean Prime will be closed all day Super Bowl Sunday.

Ocean PrimeOcean Prime, an elegant supper club, is the latest tenant to open in the Rialto, a new development on Sand Lake Road’s Restaurant Row. The name is meant to convey the restaurant’s specialties: seafood (Ocean) and steaks (Prime).

It’s difficult to consider Ocean Prime without drawing comparisons to the Oceanaire Seafood Room at Pointe Orlando. Both offer a more upscale dining experience. In terms of décor and overall ambience, I’d give the edge to Ocean Prime. 

The main dining room features warm wood walls with huge five-foot portholes that look through to the lounge area. (The dining room has its own bar for more intimate imbibing, a nice touch.) Touches of blue neon and a soft glow from drumlike light fixtures offer romantic notes, and white tablecloths and candles with frosted shades add a touch of elegance.

But in terms of the food, the kitchen has not quite reached its prime. 

My guest and I started with the chef’s selection of East and West Coast oysters, which netted us two from each coast for a $12 charge. The person who delivered the bivalves could only tell us which side of the country they came from and was unable to narrow their origins further. The presentation was less than stellar, and the oysters themselves were rather puny.

(And by the way, the chef of the chef's selection is Todd Baggett, who is known to restaurant-goers in Central Florida from a number of venues, including the Boheme in downtown Orlando, Wolfgang Puck Cafe at Downtown Disney, Beluga at Winter Park Village and, just down the road from his new home, Moonfish.)

A “surf n turf” appetizer had lovely sea scallops and boneless short ribs plopped together in a smallish bowl with way too mashed potatoes. Good scallops, good ribs, bad presentation.

Onion soup was distinguished by a near lack of broth under heavy cheese; she-crab soup had a slight astringency and was not nearly as rich as it should have been.

I went the prime route with my entrée, choosing the ribeye, a gorgeous piece of meat cooked just right but unfortunately over salted.

Blackened swordfish, listed as a chef’s specialty, was a very nice hunk of fish, deftly cooked but fairly mundane. Wilted spinach and jalapeno corn tartar didn’t add much to the dish.

Desserts feature such creations as chocolate peanut butter pie, crème brulee and baked Alaska, which I’ve seen only on one other menu in town: the one at Oceanaire.

Service was professional and thorough, and once the kitchen makes the right improvements, Ocean Prime will be a good choice.

Ocean Prime is at the Rialto/Orlando, 7339 W. Sand Lake Road, Orlando. Dinner is served nightly. The phone number is 407-781-4880. Here's the Web address, but a workplace warning: the Web site plays loud music.