Naradeva Thai Restaurant

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I was happy to see a new Thai restaurant set up shop in Millenia Plaza. That corner of town could use some cuisinal diversity, and it was also nice to see an independent restaurant among all the brand names. Naradeva Thai

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Thai style barbecue pork at Naradeva includes a braised egg.
Restaurant says on its menu that it strives to keep its food “genuine and consistent with the original recipes.”

I did enjoy seeing the array of entrees that seemed different from what it offered in other area Thai restaurants, and I focused mainly on the section of the menu with the heading Typical Entrees. I was intrigued by the Thai red b.b.q. pork with sesame gravy, especially because the description said it was served with a braised egg. Braised egg -- how exotic.

It turned out to be a hard-boiled egg that seemed to have been simmered in soy sauce, though not too much. The rest of the dish, however, was heavy with soy, which gave it an overwhelmingly salty flavor. Ironically, the egg served to cut through the saltiness and make the dish more palatable. I suppose that was its intended purpose.

The lunch portion included a spring roll with chopped vegetables, perfectly mundane. The dish was also served with fragrant jasmine rice and garnished with cucumbers.

Naradeva moved into the space that had been Bear Rock Cafe, a sandwich sort of place that opened in 2004 and then became utterly forgettable. The interior features a prominent fireplace with Buddha statues and decorative ferns. Unfortunately, what I remember most about the the place is that the floor was sticky. That really shouldn’t be the case so early in the day.

The staff, however, were gracious and friendly. Based on that, I might give it another try, but I won’t be ordering the Thai style barbecue again, braised egg or not.

Naradeva Thai Restaurant is at 4696 Millenia Plaza Way, Orlando. It is open for lunch and dinner. It does not yet have a Web site. Dinner entrees range from $9.95 to $13.95. The phone number is 407-903-0300.

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