Sakura Sushi

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Sakura Sushi only so-so

I finally made it to Sakura Sushi, the restaurant that replaced the popular Shiki on Park Avenue a while back. But I have to tell you I was neither overwhelmed more underwhelmed. I guess I was just whelmed. I tried the "white tuna" nigirizushi, which was smallish and did not adhere to the pad of rice. Still, it was fresh-tasting.

Monster roll was a spider roll with cream cheese, a substance that gives sushi snobs an opportunity to turn their noses up in unison. I happen to like cream cheese, especially when served with a crispy-fried soft-shell crab, the "spider" in a spider roll.

The restaurant on a whole seemed a bit unkempt and dark. I ate at the sushi bar, where a fan was blowing out over the heads of patrons. Also on the counter was a sample of some offering in a martini glass that had obviously been sitting there for a few hours. It was most unappetizing.

For many years, Shiki was the only sushi restaurant for Winter Parkers, at least in the Park Avenue area. Now there are other choices, most notably Kata Thai and Sushi, so Sakura can no longer rest on Shiki's laurels. It's time to try a little harder.

Sakura is at 525 Park Ave. S., Winter Park. The phone number is 407-740-8018. It is open nightly for dinner (no lunches).