Chuan Lu Gardens East

Written by Scott Joseph on .

Chuan Lu exterior

Remember the Broadway musical “Spider-Man: Turn Off the Dark”? Besides having music and lyrics by U2’s Bono and The Edge, it’s most known for the trouble it had opening. It was technically complex with special effects that included actors flying on harnesses over the heads of the audience.

It is also known for having the longest preview period in the history of Broadway, 182 performances. One of the reasons the previews went on for so long was to deal with the technical problems. But the producers also knew that as long as the show was in previews, the critics would consider it off limits. But after six months, the critics decided enough was enough and one by one started attending and reviewing.

Soft opening is the restaurant equivalent of a Broadway preview. Chuan Lu Gardens is having a soft opening almost as epic as Spider-Man.

I first visited the new eastside location for Chuan Lu Gardens, whose original restaurant is in downtown Orlando’s Mills 50 district, in mid March. Even then the restaurant had been open for about three weeks. But a handwritten note taped to the door said “Soft Opening.” I went in anyway, knowing that I wouldn’t be writing a review from that visit. Indeed, the restaurant was in need of more rehearsal time, and it didn’t even involve servers flying overhead.

I checked back after two weeks and the sign was still taped to the door. It was still there two weeks after that. And still there when I stopped by this week.

Enough, I thought, time for this show to open.

China Palace Restaurant

Written by Scott Joseph on .

China Palace streetGoogle Maps

This place has scared the hell out of me for nearly 29 years.

That’s how long I’ve been driving past it, usually as I turn left onto South Orange Blossom Trail from Michigan Street heading for the on-ramp to Interstate-4. It’s a route I’ve taken probably thousands of times. And most of those times I’ve been conscious of glancing at the freestanding boxy building with the yellow plastic sign across the top, just over the windows clad with metal bars, with the name China Palace Restaurant and a couple of Chinese characters.

Who goes there? I wondered. What must it look like inside? Do people really eat there? And then I’d turn my attention to the traffic ahead and gird myself for the only thing scarier, a drive on the moving hell that is I-4.

But like I said, I’ve been passing China Palace for almost 29 years, ever since I moved to Central Florida to begin reviewing restaurants. Nearly three decades in a town of fickle diners. A new question began to needle me: How has it lasted so long?

We’re in the midst of the Lunar New Year festival, which began on Saturday. And since this is designated the Year of the Rooster, I decided to stop being so chicken.

So this time I made the left hand turn from Michigan Street onto Orange Blossom Trail and then veered right into one of the parking spaces directly in front of China Palace.

Yummy House

Written by Scott Joseph on .

Yummy House beef with teapot

I miss Eastern Pearl. The Chinese restaurant in Altamonte Springs, in my estimation, did some of the best Asian dishes in the area. At least back in 2000 when it first opened. The success of the Altamonte restaurant prompted the owners to open another, in 2009, near Orlando International Airport. But that one was merely OK, and perhaps the vagaries of operating two restaurants eventually brought down both.

Now in the place of the original Eastern Pearl is another Chinese restaurant, Yummy House, a small chain out of Tampa with six locations, all within Florida. According to its website, YH has won awards for its cuisine at its Tampa and Gainesville locations. But I don’t see any accolades coming to the Altamonte Springs restaurant any time soon.

Perhaps my visit was destined to be troublesome when I was greeted — a word that doesn’t quite describe the unsmiling acknowledgement from the person who came from around the bar when I came in — and was directed to sit at the table next to the front door. When I said I didn’t care to sit there, he gestured to any of the other dozen or so empty tables and told me, grudgingly, to sit wherever I wanted.

Chan's Chinese Cuisine

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Chans duck 

With Christmas just a few days away, I know that a lot of people have images of one thing dancing in their heads. That’s right, Chinese food.

It’s a thing, especially in big cities. That’s because while most restaurants are closed on December 25, Chinese restaurants are more likely to be open. So people looking for a place to dine on that day just naturally gravitate to Chinese restaurants. I know many people who consider it their Christmas tradition.

You’ll find several Chinese restaurants in Orlando that will be open on Christmas Day, including Chan’s Chinese Cuisine on Colonial Drive in Orlando, which I had the pleasure of revisiting recently.

I was in a party of seven, so we were seated at one of the large round table with a lazy susan in the center. The turntable was soon filled with myriad dishes and we kept it whirling as we sampled a little bit of everything and returned for a lot more of our favorites.

Pershing Chinese Restaurant

Written by Scott Joseph on .

 Pershing duck

Pershing isn't exactly the name you'd expect for a Chinese restaurant, but that was one of the things I liked about it. No, make that the only thing I liked about it. Unfortunately, this newcomer in the plaza at the corner of Semoran Boulevard and, making sense of the name, Pershing Avenue is a little too much like most of the other Chinese restaurants in Central Florida: mediocre.

The steamed dumplings were flavorless, and so was the watery dipping sauce. My entree of roast duck looked impressive, and it might have tasted better, too, if it had been heated through. It was stone cold. I suppose I should be happy it wasn't sitting out at room temperature, but it would have been nice to have it heated up. And it was all quite dry, the duck meat, the broccoli and the rice. All perfect for a bland diet.

But what made the experience even less pleasant was that I felt as though I had walked into the owners' living room when I entered the storefront space. And I don't mean that in a good and welcoming way. All the workers were in the dining room staring at a sporting event on the large television. One got up to wait on me while most of the others kept watching. And when my food was delivered everyone went into the kitchen and returned with their owb bowls of food, which they sat eating while continuing to watch the tv. I felt more like an intruder than a guest.

I wish this was unusual, but when we're talking about Chinese restaurants this sort of thing seems to be the norm. Why is that? We've seen such great improvements in the quality of ethnic restaurants over the years. The big exception is the category of Chinese cuisine. I suppose we put up with it because they offer plentiful food for modest prices. But they won't get better until we start demanding that they do.

Pershing Chinese Restaurant is at 4542 S. Semoran Blvd., Orlando. It is open for lunch and dinner daily. The phone number is 407-282-1882.


Tasty Wok BBQ & Noodle House

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tasty wok interior

Happy Lunar New Year, everybody! Say goodbye to the Year of the Snake and say hello to the Year of the Horse. You’ll probably see depictions of an anaconda with a long white beard giving way to a pony in diapers.

By the way, the correct term is Lunar New Year, not Chinese New Year. Not even the Chinese refer to it as Chinese New Year. If they don’t call it Lunar New Year, they call it Spring Festival. The reason is that the occasion is marked by other countries as well, including Korea, Vietnam and, though to a lesser extent, Japan (most of Japan has move to the Gregorian calendar).

What’s great about knowing that is that your celebratory cuisine choices increase exponentially. If you want to join in, at least by dining out, you are not limited to Chinese restaurants (good thing that), you can also choose from our vast inventory of Vietnamese restaurants and growing number of Korean eateries.

Chuan Lu Garden

Written by Scott Joseph on .

chuan shrimp

It’s been a fairly common practice among local Asian restaurants, especially Chinese, to keep two separate menus, one for the general public (read: westerners) and one for Asians. The former would have the dishes that are well known to most who have ever eaten in a Chinese restaurant in America -- your moo goos and mu shus and sueys, chopped or not, and such -- and the latter would have dishes that are more authentically Chinese. The reason usually isn’t to deprive the general population of something special, or reserve it just for privileged guests but rather to protect unaccustomed taste buds from unfamiliar -- and potentially unpleasant -- experiences.

At least that is probably the thinking on the part of the restaurant owners. 

And for many of the guests who think they’re accustomed to Chinese flavors they just might be doing them a favor. But how much better it would be if the restaurant owners would use the opportunity to educate and enlighten our palates.

When I first reviewed Ming’s Bistro in the Mills 50 district (before it was called the Mills 50 district) the owner tried her best to talk me out of a duck entree because it had a lot of duck fat in it that she thought I might find unappealing. I had to convince her that it really was what I wanted. (To be fair, this isn’t something that is unique to Asian restaurants. In Paris last month a server tried to talk me out of an entree of calf’s brain, asking two or three times if I really knew what it was.)

Ming Court - There's Something in the Air

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There’s an old joke about the quality of a new restaurant with a punchline that says, “10 million flies can’t all be wrong,” or something like that. If you substituted gnats for flies, you’d have my thoughts about a recent meal I had at Ming Court on International Drive. Ming Court certainly is not new -- I first reviewed it in 1989 -- and an infestation of gnats is not quite the harbinger of unsanitary conditions that flies represent. But an infestation is the only way I can describe what I experienced.


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Driving up Mills Avenue recently, I noticed a banner on Chinatown that said the restaurant had reopened. I hadn’t known it was closed, but I thought it was a good excuse to stop
Beef curry at Chinatown
in and revisit.

When chinatown opened 10 years ago, I praised it for its fresh seafood selections. And fresh they were because much of the seafood for the dining room was sourced from the fish market that shared space in the freestanding building.

The market has not reopened with the restaurant. And peeking through the window, I could see it doesn’t appear that it will be a seafood market again anytime soon. So what you have now with Chinatown is your basic Chinese restaurant with the usual choices.

Chan's Chinese

Written by Scott Joseph on .

chansYou know you’re in a more authentic Chinese restaurant when you find an entry for Crispy Fried Pork Intestines alongside the more usual General Tso’s Chicken. Of course it would be even more authentic if the General’s chicken, an American creation, wasn’t on the menu at all, but we’ll take what we can get.

Chan’s Chinese has been on Colonial Drive in the Mills 50 district before it was called Mills 50. That city-mandated designation still isn’t embraced by many locals, most of whom still call the area Little Saigon. But that moniker ignores the many other Asian eateries that also inhabit the few square blocks.