Lots of people were sad when they saw All American Cafe close its tiny corner space at Fern Creek Road and Kaley Street, I among them. All American had been my perennial favorite for Best Breakfast when I was doling out Foodie Awards, and I was known to stop in on the occasional Sunday for a daybreak meal, daybreak on Sundays is generally after 10 a.m.
But it turned out the morning crew was just moving to bigger digs, and essentially just around the corner. Owner Tommy Collura took over a former Beef O’Brady’s on Curry Ford Road near Crystal Lake Drive. It increased the seating four-fold. Heck, you could fit the entire former space into the new restaurant’s storeroom.
What they lost with the move was the outside seating. Indeed, almost all of the seating at the old All American Cafe was outside on a well-worn patio under a makeshift canopy.
There’s no patio to speak of here. Most of the seating is at booths and tables that are set in rows throughout the long, narrow room. At the back is a food counter, but it’s not the type where you can sit and watch the short-order cooks at work -- they’ve got a proper kitchen in the back.
One thing that hasn’t changed is the quality of the food they churn out. My friend had a western omelet that was bursting with ham, onions and green peppers. I had a half order of biscuits and gravy, which was enormous. The biscuit was soft and fresh and there were great bits of meat in the creamy gravy. We split one pancake, which covered the plate and was spongey enough to soak up the melting butter and gravy.
I like to order off the menu at All American, even on the days when the breakfast buffet is offered. I’m sure it’s a better deal in terms of price, but I don’t like being tempted to overeat, especially when I can do that anyway with the size of the portions. Plus, I just think the quality is better when made to order.
I’ll miss sitting on the old All American’s patio -- it wasn’t a pretty place, especially given that you were looking at the cars parked next to the restaurant. But you could relax there with your dog. But I’m glad that the good food is still available. And we may see more from All American Cafe, including dinner hours. Collura says that he is applying for a beer and wine license, and once that’s in hand, he’ll start opening later. Pizzas may be on the menu. (In fact the restaurant’s Facebook page refers to it as All American Cafe & Pizzeria.)
The old space, by the way, is being renovated and will apparently be a place called Blossom Kafe. Yes, with a K. More on that as it becomes available. All American Cafe is at 2904 Curry Ford Road, Orlando. It is open for breakfast and lunch daily. The website is allamericancafe.net. The phone number is 407-897-2213.