I could see where some purists might take umbrage with Buttercrust Pizza’s name. Not the Buttercrust part – that’s a perfect description of the taste.

It’s the word Pizza some might object to. That’s because Buttercrust’s does not fit the usual mold. And that includes the shape of the mold. I can see the point of the pizza snobs who won’t have anything but a New York style thin crust wedge you have to fold the fit in your mouth. I get it. But they should get over it and try Buttercrust because whatever you call it it pretty darned delicious.

B.P.’s specialty is a thick crust square pie whose base is more breadlike than a standard pizza. The website describes it as “similar to grandma style,” which I don’t quite understand. My grandmother never made any kind of pizza, but my mom would sometimes make pizza bread that involved taking a baguette, slicing it lengthwise, slathering it with tomato sauce and putting it under a broiler until the mozzarella cheese on top melted.

This isn’t quite like that (thank goodness). Although the crust is indeed bready, it still has more of a glutenish texture that pizza dough should have.

And yes, the flavor of the crust is as buttery as the name promises. And the toppings were applied generously. At least they were on the meatlover pie that I ordered recently.

It had ham, meatball, sausage crumbles, bacon and pepperoni that had a forward kick. The sauce was swirled on top, which probably keeps it from seeping through the cheese to get soaked up in the crust.

I must admit that when I first picked up my order – this is a storefront space with no seating – I was disappointed at the size, especially considering the $21.95 fee. But what it lacked in width it made up for in height, and there was great value in the product. In fact, after my companion and I had already had too much to eat, there was still enough left over for two cold-pizza breakfasts.

Buttercrust also offers a “classic round crust” for those who get palpitations just thinking of a square pizza. By the way, Buttercrust’s square pie is more like the pizza al taglio that is a mainstay in Roman pizzerias. So in that respect it’s even more traditional.

Buttercrust Pizza is at 4781 S. Orange Ave. (at Gatlin Ave.), Orlando (map). It is open for lunch Wednesday through Sunday and for dinner Tuesday through Sunday. The phone number is 407-237-9981. There is an online ordering system but it’s a little wonky; best to call it in.