The thing I like most about a coal-fired pizza is the crust. Not the thickness or the crispiness of the circumferential edge, though those are certainly important factors.
But what I really like about the crust of a coal-fired pizza is its blackened bottom, a fine bit of ashiness that gives the dough a delightful earthiness.
The crust was perfect on the pizza I sampled recently at Capone’s Coal Fired Pizza at the Promenade at Sunset Walk. It’s a second location for a Ft. Myers restaurant and a welcome addition to the entertainment complex.
My dinner companion and I dined recently at one of the well-spaced tables on the patio outside the restaurant. Inside, the decor is reminiscent of Prohibition-era Chicago, with red brick walls, tin-like ceiling and gilded light fixtures.
The pizza we chose was the Italiano, which had an even tomato sauce base with a blend of mozzarella and romano cheeses the spread all the way to the edge. The plentiful toppings included pepperoni, prosciutto, soppressata and capicola. Quite a meaty pie, well seasoned, and with a crust that folded easily.
From the list of pastas, I selecte the Cajun chicken and shrimp, which featured linguine, made in house, tossed with a spicy cream sauce with whole shrimp and chunks of chicken. Freshly chopped scallions dotted the dish, which was accompanied by a couple of slices of fresh Italian bread.
For an appetizer we shared the Mama Capone’s meatballs, a couple of orbs with a soft but meaty texture plopped in a pulpy tomato sauce, served with a scoop of creamy ricotta and sprinkled with grated romano and torn basil.
Service was congenial and attentive. Staff members wore masks and each table had a large bottle of hand sanitizer.
For those not familiar with the Promenade at Sunset Walk, it’s a large entertainment and restaurant complex in front of the Margaritaville Resort. It features weekly and monthly events, such as an Artisan and Farmer’s Market on Saturdays, live bands on an outdoor stage, and a monthly car and truck show.
Capone’s Coal Fired Pizza is at 3216 Margaritaville Blvd., Kissimmee (map). It is open for dinner lunch Friday through Sunday and for dinner Wednesday through Sunday. The menu is not posted online but I’ve included some photos below. The phone number is 407-893-2625.