Timing is everything.
Feather & Quill, a “New American restaurant and craft cocktail bar, a more ambitious concept from the owners of Stubborn Mule and the Menagerie in downtown Orlando’s Thornton Park as well as RusTeak in Ocoee and College Park, opened in late February. It took over the space that had previously been Dexter’s of Windermere in The Grove shops.
I had peaked in while the space was under renovations and it appeared it was going to be posh place for upscale casual dining.
Of course, a month later restaurants were ordered to cease on-premise dining. That can be a real momentum killer for a new business.
But Feather & Quill is back open, and while I am unable to report yet how the interior turned out, I can give you some thoughts on the food I ordered for takeout recently.
The menu touches a lot of bases, from salads to pizzas to burgers and sandwiches to more elaborate entrees. The best of what I sampled was the sugo pasta, the pasta being big, chewy pillows of ricotta gnocchi, tossed with shredded pork (not port, as it says on the online-ordering menu) in a pulpy tomato sauce seasoned with roasted garlic, basil oil and shaved parmesan. It was accompanied by a couple of slices of toasted bread, which were wrapped in foil and, unfortunately, packaged in with the pasta. A bit messy; perhaps that can just be added to the bag.
Summer duck featured a large breast prepared sous vide and served with a sort of mushy sweet pea puree. Orange and yellow heirloom carrots and cippolini onions were included, as were diced pickled beets for some reason. The duck breast was firm and nicely seasoned.
She-crab soup was a creamy bisque of blue crab meat touched with a bit of sherry.
From the list of appetizers, the bone marrow croquettes immediately drew my attention. Mashed potatoes formed the base of the fritters, with sharp cheddar cheese in the mix. Not sure how the bone marrow factored in, though the deeply beefy demi glace dipping sauce certainly added a meaty note. Still, at $11 for three croquettes, this dish was a bit dear.
The online ordering form is easily navigated and allows for advanced ordering, even when the restaurant is closed, for pickup later. You may also prepay and add a gratuity and specify curbside pickup.
When I arrived at the restaurant and pulled up to the actual curb, my order, carried by a masked young woman, was at my car before I could open the trunk. In that respect, timing was perfect.
Besides the dining room, Feather & Quill also has patio seating in front of the restaurant. It is participating in Visit Orlando’s Magical Dining promotion, but that menu is not available for takeout.
Feather & Quill is at 4757 The Grove, Windermere. It is open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday, lunch Saturday and brunch Sunday. The phone number is 407-217-5891.