On my visits to Gateway to India I got the feeling that the owners were attempting to recreate a more authentic experience, one that might appeal immediately to natives of India while offering insight to those unfamiliar. While they may be subject to the limitations of available ingredients and the influence of another place, Americanization does not seem to be a factor.

Instead of “dumbing down” the spices, the kitchen prepared the dishes the way they should be done, mild ones mild and spicy ones spicy, and the results were quite satisfying.

Goat biryani was a good example of the attempts at authenticity. The rice dish was infused with multiple layers of flavors, including notes of cinnamon, clove and cardamom, but the dominant sensation was one of peppery heat, pronounced but not overwhelming, and not so forward that it deadened all the other flavors. The goat was as goat can be, a bit chewy, and the presence of bones is always a bit startling, but the taste was good.

Gateway’s menu features specialties of Northern India but has dishes from throughout the country. One of my favorites was the lamb Hyderabadi, a buttery brown curry flavored with ginger ... Read more