Enzo is gone, but his restaurant continues on. Let your server put together an antipasti selection from the table in the dining room.

One of my favorites is bucatini alla Enzo, which features fat, hollow pasta tossed tableside with prosciutto, peas, bacon and mushrooms plus a little sprinkling of freshly grated parmesan. All the ingredients meld together to flavor a buttery sauce that coats the noodles. With prosciutto and bacon in the mix the taste is a decidedly salty one, but not unpleasantly so. Because they’re so fat and unwieldy, bucatini noodles are impossible to be eat gracefully. So just dive in the best you can.

Costaletta di vitello, was as good a veal chop as you’re likely to find anywhere in town. The thick chop was as tender as you expect a veal chop to be – and as tender as you are justified to demand at that price. It was cooked to a perfect medium-rare and seasoned with butter that had just the slightest hint of white truffle essence.

Go before sunset and enjoy the gardens before going inside.

On my visits to Gateway to India I got the feeling that the owners were attempting to recreate a more authentic experience, one that might appeal immediately to natives of India while offering insight to those unfamiliar. While they may be subject to the limitations of available ingredients and the influence of another place, Americanization does not seem to be a factor.

Instead of “dumbing down” the spices, the kitchen prepared the dishes the way they should be done, mild ones mild and spicy ones spicy, and the results were quite satisfying.

Goat biryani was a good example of the attempts at authenticity. The rice dish was infused with multiple layers of flavors, including notes of cinnamon, clove and cardamom, but the dominant sensation was one of peppery heat, pronounced but not overwhelming, and not so forward that it deadened all the other flavors. The goat was as goat can be, a bit chewy, and the presence of bones is always a bit startling, but the taste was good.

Gateway’s menu features specialties of Northern India but has dishes from throughout the country. One of my favorites was the lamb Hyderabadi, a buttery brown curry flavored with ginger ... Read more

Now in its 27th year, Korea House is not only the oldest Korean restaurant in the area it’s one of the oldest of any cuisine. When it was the only Korean game in town, KH modified its menu to offer some Chinese dishes for Americans unfamiliar with Korean food who might think there was no difference between the two Asian styles. But as more Korean restaurants started opening -- and as the local dining public became more sophisticated -- Korea House revamped its menu to be truer to its cuisine. Still doing what it does best, serving fine Korean favorites with kimchi on the side.