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Pulapaka and PetersPulapaka, center, with wife, Jenneffer, and sous chef Derek Peters in New Orleans Friday. Photo courtesy Hari Pulapaka

Finally! A Central Florida chef has bested the cooks of New Orleans.

Hari Pulapaka, chef and co-owner of Cress in DeLand, won the first Chefs Taste Challenge as part of the Farm to Table International Conference, which winds up Monday at the Ernest N. Morial Convention Center in the Crescent City. According to the F2T website, the conference “explores the cultivation, distribution, and consumption of food and drink sourced locally.”

Pulapaka was one of nine chefs who competed Friday at the sold out event (a 10th contestant dropped out due to illness). The participants were charged with creating a dish from a list of supplied ingredients that the contestants selected in a sort of draft. Pulapaka selected whole redfish, green chilies from Hatch, NM, and eggplant.

Pulapaka, assisted by sous chef Derek Peters, presented a dish he called NOLA, for New Old Latin Asian, which featured redfish ceviche on top of Hatch green chile panna cotta, with a smoked redfish branade and eggplant mussaman, a mild curry. (Pulapaka is a native of Mumbai.)

Two highly regarded New Orleans chefs, Frank Brigtsen of Brigsten’s restaurant and Matthew Farmer of Apolline Restaurant, also competed. Other chefs included: Carmen Rodriguez, Lake Arrowhead Resort & Spa, Lake Arrowhead, CA; Craig Baker, Locale Eatery & Pub, Indianapolis; Joel Navejas, the Farmhouse, Fort Collins, CO; Joshua Calliano, Companion Bakery, St. Louis; Richard Jones, Green Door Gourmet, Nashville; and Rocky Durham, Santa Fe Culinary Academy, Santa Fe.

Judges for the Chefs Taste Challenge included: Sue Zemanick, chef at Gautreau’s in New Orleans; Brad Barnes, director of CIA Consulting at the Culinary Institute of America; Gary Prell, vice president of culinary development for Centerplate; Kevin Belton, chef at the New Orleans School of Cooking; and Izabela Wojcik, chef at the James Beard Foundation in New York.

It’s the James Beard Foundation’s annual chef awards, of course, that continually overlooks Central Florida chefs, usually in favor of those from New Orleans, which competes with Florida in the South Region category for Best Chef. While several local chefs, including Pulapaka, have been nominated for an award as semifinalists, none have made it to the finals, let alone take home the award.

With this win, perhaps the Beard Award judges will finally start taking our chefs more seriously.

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James Julie copyFIRST ON SJO -- There’s more information coming in about the restaurant planned for the former Harvey’s Bistro space in downtown Orlando that I told you about in a previous article.

The name will be Dovecote, a French word meaning pigeon house, and it will be a brasserie, according to James Petrakis. “Not a super classic brasserie,” he told me Monday, “but some semblance. Certainly Balthazar-esque,” he added, referring to a popular brasserie in Manhattan. The menu will deifinitly lean French, he said. Squab, perhaps? Petrakis and his wife, Julie, pictured at left, owners of Ravenous Pig and other restaurants, are partnering with chef Clay Miller and cocktail entrepreneur Gene Zimmerman in the new venture.

Drew White, who designed Zimmerman’s downtown bar, The Courtesy, will take on the task of redesigning the space on the ground floor of the Bank of America building. No small feat that — the original design of a cold, severe bank lobby has never fully been overcome in the other restaurants that have occupied the address. Besides Harvey’s Bistro, 390 N. Orange Avenue has also been home to Terrace 390 most recently. The first restaurant to occupy the space was Bakerstreet. Gomez Construction will handle the buildout. Petrakis said the partners have been getting a lot of support from the owners and managers of the building.

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The restaurant space on the ground floor of the Bank of America building in downtown Orlando, the space that is more fondly remembered as the home of Harvey’s Bistro but whose most recent tenant was Terrace 390, has been acquired by a partnership that includes chefs James Petrakis of the Ravenous Pig and Clayton Miller, who opened Norman’s at the Ritz-Carlton, and the owner of The Courtesy cocktail bar, Gene Zimmerman.

Miller told me that the team has signed the lease to take over the restaurant but that the name and the concept had not yet been finalized. He said they’ve been working on the deal for about six months, but he doesn’t expect the restaurant to open until 2016. “Best case scenario is eight months,” he said, “worst case, a year.”

Miller will serve as the managing operating partner for the enterprise and will be the restaurant’s executive chef. Petrakis, Miller said, is an investing partner but will be very much involved in the operation. “We’re going to try to use a lot of synergy between his existing businesses and ours,” Miller said of Petrakis. Besides the Ravenous Pig, Petrakis and his wife, Julie, also own Cask & Larder and Swine & Sons Provisions in Winter Park.

Zimmerman will oversee the restaurant’s beverage program. His Courtesy bar has a good reputation as a destination for people who enjoy well crafted cocktails.

Miller most recently had been with 50 Eggs, Inc., in Miami, the group that operates the popular Yardbird. Prior to that he had been the executive chef at Wit & Wisdom, a Tavern by Michael Mina, at the Four Seasons in Baltimore. Washington Post restaurant critic Tom Sietsma credited Miller with improving the quality of the restaurant, which he said faltered under the previous chef. “The situation turned around with the arrival of Clayton Miller, who previously made Trummer’s on Main in Clifton worth the drive. Visit Wit & Wisdom these days — and you should — and you’ll taste what I mean; Miller is a chef who makes something special out of the routine,” Sietsma wrote in a 2012 review. Miller told Sietsma at the time he left Wit & Wisdom that he was going to Florida because his wife's family lived in Orlando. 

The restaurant, at 390 N. Orange Ave., has had many restaurant tenants of varying degrees of quality. One of them, Ettore’s, still ranks as one of the worst I’ve reviewed locally. Harvey’s Bistro, which was a concept from Manny Garcia, Enjoyed many years of popularity until it closed in February of 2009, along with Garcia’s fine dining restaurant on the building’s top floor, Manuel’s on the 28th, following a dispute regarding rent with the management company at the time. The Manual’s space is now a real estate office  security broker dealer.

The team of Miller, Petrakis and Zimmerman is an impressive, and the restaurant’s will undoubtedly be among the most anticipated of 2016.

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Osprey table

When I first reviewed the Osprey Tavern it was still new and hadn’t quite defined itself. It got a boost to its self confidence with the recent hiring of Joseph Burnett as its executive chef. Burnett’s bona fides include the original Norman’s in Coral Gables and the existing Norman’s at the Ritz-Carlton Orlando, Grande Lakes. Before joining Osprey, he was chef de cuisine at the Ravenous Pig in Winter Park.

Burnett has made changes to the menu but it isn’t a complete overhaul, at least not yet. He has added a chef’s table experience, which I was invited to try during a media preview.

The chef’s table isn’t in the kitchen but sits next to it and has a good view of the action going on in the open arena. For that matter, so do most of the other tables in the bustling dining room, but presumably only the chef’s table menu is offered at this 12-top next to the glass-front wine cabinets.

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Korea House interior

When I first came to Central Florida to review restaurants, over 27 years ago, there was only one exclusively Korean restaurant in the area: Korea House. We have several more now and some very good ones, Shin Jung and Seoul Gardens among them, but the Korean category hasn’t had the exponential growth of, say, Thai.

But a new one recently opened on East Colonial Drive in Orlando: Korea House.

The restaurant that has operated in Longwood since 1982, though not in the same space, has opened a second location. Both restaurants share the same menu, which has expanded over the years and has arguably become more authentic as the dining public has become more adventurous.

Way back in 1988 when I first reviewed the original Korea House (it was my seventh restaurant critique for Florida magazine in the Sunday Sentinel), I don’t recall that tabletop cooking was as big a thing as it is now. In fact, at the new KH, all of the center tables have built-in griddles, and on a recent evening when I visited, there were people waiting for one of those tables to open up, even though there were several other non-cooking tables available. Most of the griddles were being used by families having a home-cooked meal without the home (even though the place is called Korea House).